I went into the drugstore yesterday. The cosmetician was very pleasant, very helpful, but who hired her for this position? Her makeup was so dark and severe that it would scare children. I am no better at impartiality when it comes to my own face than anyone else, but there was nothing more this woman could have done to detract from her appearance. Her eyes never get noticed, lost in the pharaoh effects and dark burgundy lip. She might be a Soft Autumn, so it feels a bit of a tragedy to look at her.
We talked about Spring and Summer in previous articles (How Summers Intensify Eye Colour and How Springs Intensify Eye Colour). There, it was suggested that every single step of the makeup process should intensify eye colour. Your first reaction to a good blush should be, it strengthens the color of my eyes. As the picture frame of your eyes, eyebrows should to be natural in shape and color, and groomed to look like you, but neater.
In 12 Season (12 Tone) Colour Analysis, Autumn’s colors are warmed by gold, medium on the light/dark scale, and muted to various degree, depending on which of the 3 Autumns is in question.
Eyeliner should not be so dark that it becomes obvious. Because so many women buy this product in colour that is too dark, that is what the industry makes. Finding lighter colours and a good variety of browns and greys takes some searching. The Autumn challenge is to find colour of the right degree of warmth. If the colour is too hot, the rims of the eyes look bloodshot. It is surprising how warm the Autumn brown can be and still do what we want, define the eye shape and then disappear into the face.
For anyone who might be new, you might wonder why I never show you any blue/green/purple makeup that the viewer could perceive to be those colours. Next time you see a woman with that makeup, think about whether you are looking at eye or the makeup. It sure can be done tastefully. A dark green that looks more like dark brown? Fine. A taupe olive that looks more taupe? Fine. Teal that looks like peacock? Well, y’know.
I know there are blue die-hards out there. Wouldn’t it be ok to wear blue in eye makeup, as an orange complement, since Autumn skin undertone is orange-brown (more about undertones in Skin Undertones)? The cartoon effect of blue makeup can get away from you, but your taste may be different from mine and that is fine. Colour is big enough for many opinions. I would suggest you wear your blues in clothing, and let them complement the eye colour. Clothing has great power to strengthen eye colour. As a bigger colour block, it is more effective than makeup for this purpose.
The principle of the Season, the radiance, the special look that nobody else can pull off so realistically: Our Earth is our cradle. She feeds us, protects us, and never does anything harsh or unexpected that might harm us. She is gentle, warm, and generous in her abundance. Even her light is moderate, kind, welcoming.
Who would put black eyeliner on that? Or cool foundation and fuchsia lips? It would feel like a ski jump in a September cornfield. Avoid overwhelming the eye with makeup, which happens too fast. Better to underwhelm the eye with makeup. A very little goes a long way on the Soft and Light Seasons.
The hair is butterscotch and brown, like peanut butter fudge. Make the eyeshadow toffee. Every Autumn has the ability to repeat her hair color in her eye colour.
This is a Soft Autumn eye. The orange at the center repeats the freckes.
Make this the hair.
Is this the same as Spring red? No, that is here. Is there a difference from a bottle? Ask a colourist, I cannot answer. It might depend a lot on the base colour that the pigment is being applied to. If anyone does know, please share.
Notice too that there is a lot of Summer in this eye, where the outer half or more is gray-blue-green. Soft Autumn is a Neutral Season and a cooler-neutral eyeshadow can work as well as a warm-neutral (shown in the graphic below).
Among the test drapes that are used to identify Season, there always seems to be one that connects powerfully with the eye colour. For Soft Autumn, the olive drape is the best eye colour intensifier. Interestingly, for the other Soft Season, the Soft Summer, the best eye color drape is the soft pine green. The drapes are finding something in these eyes that is not immediately obvious.
Below are the eyeshadow cool and warm colors, the olive drape, and the brown eyeliner I use on almost every Soft Autumn. The eye above belongs to a cool-side Soft Autumn and my usual brown eyeliner (Rimmel Sable) can be very slightly dark in the daytime. On her, Soft Summer brown-grey (Clinique Smoky Brown) is very good as well.
If an eyeshadow the same colour as the eye were applied, it would look too blue. Matching eyes to eye makeup is a big boobytrap. The tendency is to pick the wrong eye colors and it ends up looking matchy, like the dreaded tried too hard.
Autumn says to the world : My burnished glory can melt with its heat, but I am also safe and strong. I am what I appear to be and honor truth above all.
These eyes have a very particular property . They contain the colour of metal. It might be copper, flame, or a darker greener bronze color. This effect is sometimes seen in the other Autumn Seasons as well. They have to be wearing the right clothes or it can be lost.
Metallics in the thread of a scarf, or somewhere, is the kingdom of the True and Dark Autumn.
Get your hair colour to pick up something in the eye. Too many Autumns have weak, safe beige hair. It will only age them. The other pitfall is to go too dark, but these are very medium darkness people. I like this hair colour, or perhaps a shade darker. Even in second-best makeup, you can’t not notice the eyes.
We discussed True Autumn’s best makeup colours previously, here. A metallic dot of antiqued gold eyeshadow just over the iris, and under the matte shade that covers the whole lid, is sublime. The viewer keeps seeing a flicker of flame in the vicinity of the eye.
Metallic lipstick or blush also can be beautiful on True Autumn. The caution is to be careful to put in on tight skin and only one feature at a time. Once over 40, adding a laminate to the hair might be a better way to add fire than a shimmer makeup face. Today’s shimmers are ground much more finely than the old frosts. The metallic in Autumn skin takes to it nicely.
We’ve talked about ways to repeat and complement eye colour. What about contrast? A warm/cool contrast does not work. This skin is absolute in its warmth. Cool colour will sit on top and look like silver icing on an apple crisp. A dark/light contrast isn’t possible since there are no extreme lights in the person, and extreme darks look obvious and severe. I don’t see any room for contrast here.
I always have trouble pinning down this Season. I am here to get something done so get out of my way is close, but Dark Winter can get this way too. Try again. This is their unique radiance: I can rule the world with my might but my opulent beauty surpasses all. This is the image that I never shake (minus the singing).
The Aztec princess, born to rule and privilege.
These eyes are gingerbread brown, chocolate gingerbread, liquid bronze, or can be a green-bronze color like the head of the wine goddess in the lamp photo above. The colours of the sky swirling above Pocahontas’ head, from her crown to the top of the poster, are about right.
The eyeliner has to be very dark brown. Mascara is black-brown, possibly black depending on the darkness of the person and hair. Gentle eyeshadows look like a cement wall, instead of an invitation deeper into the person. Use rich coffees, with cream and without.
Eyeshadow hilite is darker than most other Seasons. M.A.C. Brule is good and on the light side. The other Dark Season, Dark Winter, can wear Winter icy lights, but not this group. They turn the skin to ashes.
Dark Autumn and Bright Winter are the 2 Seasons that need time to accept (and wear) the full richness of their colours. Many women back away from the strength of these colors. They are exotic colors, not traditionally feminine. The clothes and makeup are hot too, chili pepper, wasabi, nubuck tan. They watch in amazement but want it to be over, like it’s too much to absorb. It would be as if you woke up and saw three suns in the sky. They feel awkwardness, danger, almost embarrassment that these colours are who they are, like they are too shamelessly attention-getting. Mind you, Autumn is nothing if not sensible. They are quick to adapt to what works and many know what they will see before they sit down. They are among the fastest learners.
Play up the hair and arrange it around the face. It repeats the eye colour exactly. If it is worn too flat or skinned back, you lose a huge eye intensifying opportunity. Do everything you can to make it gleam. Avoid anything too red, wine, magenta, or burgundy. It looks more natural as warmer brown, like redwood, mahogany, dark chestnut. Port wine is the reddest you’d go.
Wear the lip colour, sheer if you have to. Lancome LaLaque in TechnoBrick is a great compromise. The lips have to balance out the eyes and hair so you look complete, instead of like a puzzle with corner missing.