We often see the attempt to charge eye colour with more makeup. When were you not just staring at the makeup? Natural skin and eyes can only compete with so much pigment before the cosmetic takes over. Luckily, when the colour is one that already exists in you, you can apply it quite heavily and it will appear as a believable part of your face, but there are limits.
There is a lot more to intensifying eye color than eye makeup.
Never underestimate the power of colour analyzed clothes colours to amplify eye colour. This alone will do more than makeup on anyone. It is a way bigger block. How much color can you create with a skinny line of liner or a tiny eyelid worth of shadow?
It is not only your same-as-eye color clothes that charge up eye color, though those might work best. All the colors in your Personal Colour swatches can do this. Each one will clear the white of the eye, just as it clears the skin. Your pinks, greens, and grays should all intensify eye colour.
Brows and Blush
Colour Analysis will bring attention to your eyes like never before, even if you do not wear makeup. Groom your brows, have them beautifully shaped, and pencil in the thin spots. Think of eyebrows as the picture frames for the eyes. They matter.
Once many women get the right shade of blush, their first comment is that it brings out the eyes. Absolutely it does, instantly and strongly. Look for that effect to happen when you buy blush. All makeup should strengthen the eye colour. The eye is the jewel in the face, the focal point of the entire appearance.
Eyeshadow Palettes for Eye Colour
Think twice about investing in palettes made for certain eye colours. Have you ever seen them work? Have you ever said to a woman, your eyeshadow makes your eyes look so much greener, and really meant it?
There is no universal formula for every green eye. The makeup that works on one skin will be too weak or too strong on another. There are many greens in a green eye, too confusing to be able to pick out the correct ones. Besides, green or blue makeup next to green or blue eyes sets up competition and distraction from the eye itself.
Also, any skin can have any eye color or combination. If the eyeshadows are made for the green-eye cool-skin woman, then it dulls the skin of the warm-skinned woman. This is the reincarnation of the silver bullet we know as the lip colour that suit every skin tone.
Using the right browns and grays,
And understanding that not everyone can do everything,
And that without a Colour Analysis, cosmetic colour browns and greys are the hardest of all colours to understand by a long shot,
Intensifying eye colour happens with repeats, complements, and contrasts.
This is 12 Seasonal Colour Analysis. There are 3 Summer Seasons, the True, the Soft (blends an Autumn trace), and the Light (a dab of Spring).
True Summer eyes look best to me when they are gazing out of a misty pool of cool grays. Soft grays, not sharp grays.
- Soft navy eyeliner, not blackened sapphire. True Summer often has very deep blues in the eye that can be repeated. Take care when you select a colour that it looks good with the entire swatch book. Too often, we see eye makeup in colours that nobody would pair in an outfit with the colours in the eyes or wardrobe. If the combination is uncomfortable in an outfit, how can it be attractive on the face?
- Denim eyeliner repeats the overall color and darkness level of the eye. Annabelle Blue Grey is one of the best I know for True Summer.
- Cool gray or blue gray eyeshadow (much more gray than blue, like rainclouds) repeats the True Summer undertone and blends nicely into the skin. Mauve-gray can work, but many Summers have pink in the eyelid rims, which risks an eye looking bloodshot.
- The contrast of a cool blue eye with a warm brown shadow is stunning, so the magazines tell us. Warm brown shadow on the True Summer skin tone is mud. There is no heat in this skin. Rosy browns will read as warmer against a blue eye and can act as the complement for the blue. Sally Beauty Chocolate Truffle Trio is good.
These eyes look best when they are gazing out of a pool of fog and lavender smoke. Neutral tan-brown and mauve-browns are lovely, with misty pinks and antique whites as base and highlight colours. No hard edges, everything quiet, blurred, and diffused.
- Repeat the tan brown in the eye with eyeliner.
The eyeliner is the bodice colour. The Canadian Superstores carry a line of clothes/makeup called Joe Fresh. Their Twist Up Eyeliner pencil in Charcoal is the right one.
Your medium and dark eyeshadows are all contained in this dress (linked to Jones New York, but no longer available).
2. That tan brown can be repeated again in the highlight colour in the hair. Beach (and bleach) blonde highlights do not work, they look like grey stripes, like a strangely intended aging effect. The right highlight is browned down. All the Autumns can repeat hair color and eye colour. This is beautiful, real, natural hair for a Soft Summer, on Jennifer Aniston. They often get her too blonde. Immediately, her skin yellows and her eyes fade.
3. Any contrasts? The whole concept of the Season is low contrast, so you have to be exceptionally subtle with all makeup. Neutral Seasons have a little heat in their skin, and cooler and warmer choices in their palette. We are still mostly cool here though, the skin still muddy in warm brown colours. The skin looks heavy and the heat of warm brown in the eyeshadow can yellow the white of the eye in a subliminal way, looking unhealthy. There is no contrast I know, not light/dark, warm/cool, or hi/lo saturation.
4. Any complements? I am often asked if orange-toned eyeshadows work on blue eyes, or purple tones on green eyes, etc. This is usually a blue eye, sometimes surprisingly pale, or a blue-green eye, where the eye color becomes very strong in pine green clothing. The orange-toned brown eyeshadow for the blue eye is awkward on this skin. Choose the taupes from the palette instead. It will be lovely and intensify the blue eye. The green eye could be accentuated with a dusty plum shadow. The viewer should not see purpleness.
These are the eyes that get more makeup piled on, hoping to make them pop. Either that, or someone has the hope that a dark line will look good against the light eye colour, which is altogether too much hope. The eye cannot balance either effect, the end result being to close in the eye. All we see is makeup.
This is a Light Summer eye below. Black mascara has no place here. You could barely find any colours that are even medium in darkness. Gentle light colors are key. Airy and fresh is what will look healthy and young. Imagine the colours you would paint around a rainbow to define it from its surroundings without dimming its gentle magic.
In the middle swatch, Photoshop extracted the gray shade from the middle of the iris around the 4 o’clock position. It is an excellent eyeliner. The lower colour is a lovely eyeshadow, barely yellow as Light Summer skin is, finding the very same colours in the iris and elevating them further. Because the colours are a harmonic match, there is no competition. Quite opposite, they have an additive effect on one another.
- Eyeshadows are soft dove grays, not brown. Use very light colours because the eye color is very easily overwhelmed.
- Repeats? In makeup, although coloured eyeliner takes over and drama is the only thing anyone will see, an accent that is beautiful is a cloud of cornflower or periwinkle at the outer corner of the upper lid. In clothing, the aqua and cornflower blues from the palette are superb for intensifying the iris colour.
- Complements? Not in eyeshadow. However, since there is heat in the skin, it can support some bronzer believably, as the Spring contribution is sunshine and the outdoors. A light application of a peach-gold will bring out the eyes without looking artificial. Remember, the best beauty looks like it could have happened by itself. I like Cover f/x Bronzer f/x in Gold. Also, wearing your mauve and purples in clothing will bring out the pale yellow sunlight you may have in the eye, which is pretty.
- Contrast. No light/dark extremes I can think of. The whole Season concept is not dark.
To not do
What detracts from eye colour?
1. Avoid yellow in the hair unless Nature gave it to you. Your most delicate skin will go red or yellow. Your eye will dull and gray out when the white of the eye goes yellow. Your highlight is just on the neutral beige side of silver if you are a True or Light Summer. Some Light Summers wear a yellower beige than others. Many Light Summers look far better with no highlight. Avoid also hair that’s too light (because your lightest colours are pastels, quite far from white) or hair that is one big highlight (which interrupts the natural outdoor vibe and looks parlour).
2. Big dark lashes. Unless you are aiming for the look of false black eyelashes. The viewer can barely peel their eyes away from the lashes. It may sound good but think of a time when you saw this on another woman. Her lashes feel like they’re not part of her. To paraphrase Isak Dinesen, when God wants to punish us, he grants our wishes. Summers should wear dark grey mascara, which is all but impossible to find. Soft navy blue, not too dark, is excellent.