This article began from working with a Soft Summer who asked what the colour of her nude shoe would be.
I’m no more artistic or visionary or gifted with special colour acuity than you or anybody else. I’m just a guy who knows what I like to see and put those 12 Season palettes into 12 contexts. I don’t have a day of fashion education. I guess I’ve been amazed at how many could see it my way but part of me always wants to hold up her hands and say, Wait a minute, who says I’m right? Every time I show or say something, I hope everybody’s next thought is, Yeah, fine, but give me a second. Do I agree with her?
The one with the star, either for Light or True Spring, would be nice on a strawberry blonde.
For Bright Spring,the black would anchor them to the ground. The placement of it is elongated, as opposed to a crosswise bow or strap. Many are quite dark in appearance and would do well with a little black. Many others are lighter, more neutral, golden or beige overall and could wear their beige, quite like the shoe right under the words Light Spring in the row below.
True Spring may be fair or darker than you expect, containing many golden greens, new coin gold, and peach-brown colours.
The Light Spring, along with the Light Summer, this is a fashion event that looks really good with their body and their colour-analyzed clothing.
It’s all about the uninterrupted line. Peep toes are OK but keep the nail polish subtle.
Few or no horizontal effects – cap toes, bows, stripes, ankle straps are only in if the shoe is fabulousness.
I’m nitpicky about perfection. For Winter, close enough is never good enough if they care about the subject at all. The idea of this article was to find that nude shoe for each type of natural colouring, or Season, or Tone, that does what fashion has taught us, which is to elongate the leg. As I got going with this article, I knew that I like to see a shell pinky beige shoe on Light Season women with light hair (Helen Mirren), just because it looks nice, not because her legs look any different. Besides the Light Spring and Summer, I’ve never thought flesh-coloured shoes looked so great, nor did it ever inspire any, Why, what long legs you have! reactions.
I do not believe most fashion rules. They don’t work as well as we’re led to believe. Like the idea of wearing one colour head to toe to look tall. You don’t. You might look great or like a short person in a mobster getup, but how tall you look is about the same as if you wore light or medium colour head to toe. Far as I can see, bisecting horizontal colour blocks do matter. Length of garments can make a difference, in that a shirt that ends below the rear end makes legs look shorter than one that ends at the hip bone – but the overall woman doesn’t look shorter. As David Kibbe said in a video recording of a session with a Gamine, “maybe you look taller if you’re standing in a room all by yourself” Who’s ever seen a 5’2″ woman and thought, Boy, I could have sworn you were 5’5″!! Victoria Beckham looks good in darkness, but even in stilettos, she looks like a small, slim woman.
Colour and line are all about context. They only look a certain way depending on what’s beside them. Put a woman alone in a picture wearing a shoe of colour similar to her leg, angle the lens upwards a little, make sure the floor is the colour of the shoes, and maybe the leg looks longer. Out in the real world, pouf, gone. She looks like a normal woman with pale shoes or absent feet.
Another of my Star Trek analogies: you know the transporter beam? When the person’s molecules are still spinning around and they haven’t gelled and landed yet? That’s the feeling I get from light shoes on dark people, as if they haven’t quite arrived. It’s a, Where’s the rest of you? impression. Similar thing happens when dark people wear none or light lipstick. We see the hair, we see the eyes, but they have no mouth. It feels like the bottom half of their face is vanished or someone turned down the opacity, as if it’s not solid. You can actually create this magnificent effect by just Bright or True Winter in Summer colours. They have lots of eyes, they always do. The face drains, so the eyes seem even stronger by comparison. They say, My eyes are too much. but the real deal is that their face is not enough. The lips fade into the skin, the jawline is hard to see, really, it’s like the bottom half of the face is gone.
Mauve flesh tones are superb on Soft Summer.
I think this image of Kate Middleton looks great. Very balanced.
Stay inside your lightest to darkest range as much as you can. A too-light shoe can stick out like too-light highlights up at the other end.
Thank you to D. who showed us two of the styles. You should see her buy a cocktail dress. Simply amazing what she finds out there.
Ask Your Kids
As a Winter, I tend to say no before I say yes. I’ve retrained myself to think, Why no? About the nude shoes, I asked my 18 and 19 year old daughters. They are of an age to believe that the status quo is probably and usually wrong, a conviction I hope they keep their entire lives. They are of a generation to reject dogma. They understand their own natural colouring (or Season, or Tone) and how it differs from others’. If you can do anything for your sons and daughters to give them identity and independence, never mind save them a fortune, have them know their colouring. Every person should know this about themselves by the time they’re 20. Their life will be different. I’ve analyzed 3 year olds. Their lives are different.
I asked them, Does wearing a nude shoe, in a colour similar to the skin, make you look like your legs are longer?
It took #1 less than 3 seconds to say, No, it makes you look like you have boxy clunky feet.
- “Does it ever work? Say if the shoe is small with minimal platforms or stilettos or other weirdness that draws attention to the shoe?”
- “Maybe. I never think skin-coloured anything is anybody’s best choice.”
#2 said, equally instantly, No. It looks like there’s something wrong with your feet or you have no feet.
- “Does it ever work? What about those really neutral shoes JLo wears?”
- “Not that I can see. It doesn’t look like long legs or anything, if that’s what you’re after.”
- “How can you look like your legs are longer?”
- “By having long legs in the first place. ”
Let’s say Nude Shoe will mean the shoe you could wear with anything. The one that will be least obvious at the end of your leg. It will be neutrally coloured for your type of natural colouring. Lots of women appear to have the same skin colour. This nude shoe trick is like finding your foundation – which one will be hardest to see against the background of you?
When you’re really close to the core colour, you don’t notice it on them. Like mulberry lips on Dark Winter, like blue anything on True Summer, like gold on Autumn. True Winter can disappear black so you can do things with black that would be more obvious on the other types of colouring. Autumn can disappear print, texture, and metallics that would be a distraction on someone else and would make you notice the shoe more because the person already appears to contain print, texture, and metallic. The shoe is just adding more of the same. That’s what the game is about. Adding more of what you already are. It looks calm, settled, belonging, and right.
Pinky, peachy, and yellow-beige are Light Spring’s world. Soft Autumn doesn’t do beige, they’re too dark and muted. Beige looks wimpy unless it’s pretty dark. They have green-toned grays and many neutral browns.
Dark Autumn is a lot. It has heat, darkness, strength, texture, metal, animal. They need a lot of shoe.
Nude makeup is out of gas on Winters. I find flesh-toned shoes about the same.
Here’s a Winter (Kim Kardashian) who owns some shoes. Look through the style gallery and decide for yourself which is the longest leg, the tallest woman, and the most holistic image. Look at the whole image, not just the feet. Another gallery of Kim’s shoes.
Better to stay with their disappearing colour. Keep the lines plain, the detail small, and show lots of skin, like the width of the exposed skin in the True Winter pump, like the lace in the Bright Winter shoe. Since black disappears on True Winter, you can sneak in a crosswise strap.
Bright Winter is decidedly lighter than the other Winters. They are also shiny. Shoes made of tin foil would blend right in.
The snakeskin shoes for Dark Winter (which I sincerely hope are fake). They’re fabulous. Autumn’s texture and nod to nature, Winter’s slick and expensive.
Victoria Beckham could be a Dark Winter. Here is that colouring in a light gray shoe. Look at the 4th image down, where she’s stepping down off a step. The colour above that is better, it looks more part of her.
Bright Winter can disappear shine like it is part of her, not an add-on. It’s just amazing what they can suppress. Might even consider the word oppress. JK. I have seen them turn black-brown eyeliner into gray when you paint it on their hand. You can put them in gleaming royal blue satin and it’s just a blue blouse.