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Emily is a True Winter

Emily is a True Winter

access_time 2009/12/11 account_circle chat_bubble_outline 26 Comments
Emily has passed the milestones of her first 20 years. The next 20 years will involve marriage, career, and family, often all at once. In these years, women have the least amount of time to spend on themselves, both inside and out. The demands can be overwhelming and once we emerge on the other side, many of us still look like the students we were when we last bought age-appropriate makeup.

Emily 1.

Emily would like to know what clothes look best and some help choosing makeup that does not make her feel painted. She has the sense and good taste to want to be noticed for the right reasons.

When a cosmetic colour is out of alignment with our own colours, improved appearance is hard to achieve, no matter how lightly or heavily applied. When the colour melds with the skin, you can apply a good amount, enough to last the day, before it starts looking separate from the skin.

Emily 2.

Emily has colouring so strong that she wore many of the Bright Winter drapes well. Bright Winter requires a warmer yellow in the skin, which Em does not have. Every colouring has a version of yellow and Emily’s is blue-based.

Though I have often said eye colour is not relevant to Season, I would to clarify that. Any Season can have any eye colour and that remains a fact. All Seasons could have blue eyes, though it wouldn’t be the same blue. Some are very rare, such as brown eyes in Light Seasons, but never say never. Just as the drapes are connecting with skin colours, so are they searching for the like colours in the eyes, a true mirror for the natural colouring. Em has navy blue in her eye.

Emily 3.

A Winter checklist

1. If you are not used to lipstick, use sheer colours but stay true to your swatches. The blue-eyed winter with a soft feeling about her may do better in soft fuchsia than red, but too much colour would be outside Em’s comfort zone. We used Cover Girl Amazemint in 615 (Cozy Plum) and it’s lovely.

2. Even young people should use shimmer makeup carefully. It has as much to do with facial anatomy as  Season or age because the shiny lightness advances. Elegant makeup is your supporting cast. Let your makeup be a diffusion of your own colours floating over your face, and your eyes be the shine in your face.

3. Here is an example of Winter who might deepen her hair to match the brows, but always remaining true to the base shade. Nature always colours us in perfect harmony. Her hair is the right colour but Emily could enhance the dark brows/milk skin effect more by deepening her own shade a touch. It will look real because the brows are dark, but more dramatic (not necessarily better, just a stronger visual effect), but the balance is so delicate that for most of us, hair colour is best left in its natural state, and this is especially true for the Winter groups.

Emily 4.

6. Em wears a crisp dark steel or graphite gray eyeliner to create a crisp effect.

Emily 5.

It takes a certain courage to step up to a personal colour analysis. Like having your fortune told, as empowering as it is, you may hear some things you are not ready for. I have been told that I read palms. What I really read is potential. To see yourself as you never have, both inside and out, brings up the question, What are you going to do with it?

Em will travel her own colour journey. It will be unique, unlike mine or yours or anyone else’s. Some of it may not gel for years. You have a lifetime to refine it. She can feel confident and beautiful wearing makeup and know that people see the real Emily. It takes more time to convince yourself of all that it can be, and how powerful the final effect is, when every element meshes.



26 Thoughts on Emily is a True Winter

  • "; ?> Ellen

    For lip colours for the more adventurous, would MAC Rebel and Stilla Convertable Colour in Fuchsia work?

    I wrote to you on the Facebook Fan page about faded hair dye doing strange things to my colouring. I dyed over it with a cool beige (still slightly redder than my natural colour), and suddenly my skin looks clear and bright, and my eyes a clear (no longer muddy) dark green: these colours make me look like Snow White!

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman

      I was at a MAC counter yesterday but didn’t see this in time. I’m going by this essential post
      and would say that Rebel looks great for True Winter.

      [WORDPRESS HASHCASH] The poster sent us ‘0 which is not a hashcash value.

  • "; ?> Ashley

    Have you run across cases of people in the same season not being able to share makeup colors? Aside from depth, I mean.

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman


      Now that is an intelligent question (not that yours aren’t always :)). I wondered a lot about this back when I began, because I thought I wanted to sell makeup so women would be able to find the right colours easily and pre-packaged. The answer is that so far, everyone in the same Season wears almost identical makeup, regardless of hair colour. In fact, depth of complexion seems to matter little either.
      I’m trying to expand my scope with women of colour. I had a mulatto woman a few days ago, beautiful, 22 years old, coloring between JLo and Halle Berry, but with avocado/brown/gold eyes and dark coffee hair. I wondered if I’d be able to see the effects. I also wondered if I’d be thrown off by a preconception that all Asian and African-Americans are Winter. She turned out to be Soft Summer according to the drapes. I doubted myself, but that was the answer. Once I put Soft Summer makeup on her, same exact products as on the SJP-coloring I had the week before, it was fine. No way she would have worn Winter’s fuchsia.

      REALLY wish you lived nearby. We’d learn a lot doing your analysis.

      [WORDPRESS HASHCASH] The poster sent us ‘0 which is not a hashcash value.

  • "; ?> Ashley

    That would be lots of fun.

    I’m actually becoming convinced that I’m not a True Winter after all, which would explain why I have to be very careful in my choice of purple lip colors. I am quite certain of being primarily cool, but I’m checking out the softer seasons.

    That girl sounds like she might me slightly darker-skinned than I (that photo of me in my avatar is amazingly washed out; I need to get a new one). How dark do Soft Summer colors go?

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman


      She was a Dark Winter. She verged closer to her warmer neighbor of Dark Autumn, certainly not True Winter. Actually, exactly the same as me. I would say her skin pigmentation was between Halle Berry and Oprah. It was as easy to see the changes as with any Caucasian. She was very yellow in the Spring colours at any level, and the shading under the eyes was very pronounced in the truly cool colours. What I saw more than with light people was the degree of oiliness of the skin. What I saw less was the moment when the drapes connected with the eye colours. The clearing of the white of the eye was faint and only happened sometimes. That was a very interesting day for me. I hope to do more.
      Insofar as makeup, the usual Dark Winter colours seemed a bit flat. Now, her preference was to more flamboyant use of colour than I would choose, but a person’s taste is important. I think Michelle Obama has good makeup for an African-American woman, though sometimes the lips are too caramel- bland. We found that using the usual Dark Winter tones and warming them to a more bronze shade was best. I’m not sure if that’s an Autumn influence or because of the rich brown of the skin.
      I looked for info on applying makeup to black skin, but I didn’t find anything I trusted that was in good taste.

      [WORDPRESS HASHCASH] The poster sent us ‘0 which is not a hashcash value.

  • "; ?> Ashley

    OK. A lot darker than I am, then. ^_^

    I’m ordering some Dark Winter colors off of Ebay. I got Breath of Plum in a few days ago, and at first, I thought it looked bad. I tried it tonight, though, and checked it in my room and in the bathroom, and… it blended. This is a novel concept for me, and one that I find slightly baffling. I mean, I really do look so very cool-toned; and yet, that bit of brown in my makeup helps it blend in. I guess that’s what you mean by “relatively cool,” and why draping and color palettes are so necessary.

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman

      Nikkie in our Facebook club was the client in question. She’s a lovely person, and I know she’d be happy to chat with you.
      You’re probably a Winter of some sort, but hard to know which. Breath of Plum has a lot of brown. I am a Dark Winter and I blend it with Lancome Aplum. I wish I had a Dark-Winter-only cosmetic colour. It will come down to the drapes, I think. Black Honey is a Dark Autumn/Dark Winter colour. Try MAC Slimshine in Scant; it’s the most Dark Winter I can think of.

      [WORDPRESS HASHCASH] The poster sent us ‘0 which is not a hashcash value.

  • "; ?> Ashley

    OK! Thanks. 🙂

    Definitely Winter; I can’t imagine pulling off orange makeup. :p I find that Breath of Plum goes pink when applied with a heavier hand. Scant is OK; I still find it rather odd. When I put it on, it looks like it’s going to be terrible; compared to my lips, which are some form of coral, it looks way too blue. Once it’s all on, though, it looks decent, if a little bland. It goes especially well with taupe eyeshadow. That reminds me: what is the caramel gloss that you used on Pam in the Dark Winter article?

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman


      Pam is wearing MAC Scant Slimshine and L’Oreal Caramel Creme gloss (I believe the tubes are called ColorJuice).

  • "; ?> Ashley

    OK. Thanks!

    (from the Undertones article)

    I am amazed that Pink Goddess would go coral on anyone. Breath of Plum absolutely goes on pink, I agree. I’ve been using Lancome Aplum alone lately, a good matte barely-browned red-plum with enough blue in it to be Winter dark, and been pleased.
    I really can’t see that you’d be Dark Winter. I’m no MUA for black women but, you have no good reaction to any of the makeup. I haven’t found dark overtone colour to make that much difference, interestingly.”

    It is surprising. It turns a weird warm pink on me; I was surprised at the color when I swatched it. I have a cranberry gloss that goes yellowy on me, too. I think I can wear Breath of Plum and Clinique Berry Delight. I can’t go particularly warm, though. The Dolce Vita dupe that I got, Revlon Soft Rose, goes orangey pink; Clinique Berry Delight blush is too orange; beige isn’t as flattering on me as grey-taupe.

    On a slightly related note, what do you do when someone’s face doesn’t match the rest of their body? Say the face is redder or something; can that affect the draping?

  • "; ?> Ashley

    Well, I feel stupid now. >.>

    Apparently, there is a significant difference between the light in my room and the light outside – the former throws off my skin color a LOT. Cozy Plum still isn’t perfect, but it’s not as horrible as I thought, either. I’m going to try Mulberry tomorrow and check it in proper lighting.

  • "; ?> cass

    Can a truth summer have green eyes with a brownish orange ring around the pupil? And if someone is a cool season does that mean warm pink nectarine bright coral and clear salmon are no No’s? Im cool for sure and most muted colors look bad on me. Autumn is the worst. Browns and beiges aren’t good. But I can wear light oranges with pink in them but not clear orange warm salmon or true coral. I look great in white,raspberry,hot pink,lime green/light true green,true green,emerald,turquoise,aqua,light blue,light pink,blue teal,greys,reds,navy,pine green,purple,lavender. Those are the colors people like on me they also make my eye and skin look right.

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman


      Conclusive answers to your Q will be hard to give. One of my few rules is that any Season can have any hair colour and any eye colour. You’ll see that if you look through the posts called Our Eye Album, there’ s one for each main Season group. Take a photo of your eye, you’ll be much more objective about what colours really are in it for comparisons. On average, the eye colour you describe isn’t usual for True Summer, but I’ve certainly seen a True Summer with a whole lot of yellow in a greenish eye. No rules about eye and hair colour.

      If a person’s inborn pigments are all purely and truly cool, then any warmth in colour won’t flatter them. It can’t harmonize with their natural colouring. Now, True Summer has a cool coral in their palette, so you’d have to show me the colours you mean. The range of colours that suit you sounds like you have a large Summer component. Are you a True Summer or one of the Summer blends? You’d have to be draped to know.

  • "; ?> cass

    okay thank you very much. so after looking more into makeup colors and clothing colors I am sure im not true summer the lipsticks color don’t suit. right now im considering soft summer. so I will try on some makeup and clothes. I know I wear lots of color/saturation well especially compared to what I’ve been reading about soft summer. I dislike nude and light lipsticks they make me zombie anemic looking. my lips are quite pigmented already. that’s why I usually don’t bother with makeup much. my lashes are dark and my cheeks are pigmented to. the lipcolors I do like are rhubarb-burts bees,merlot-burts bees,fushia,hot pink,deep rose those are the ones I wear. I put fushia blush on sometimes and it blends right in. my hair also get lots of highlights in the summer/sun. my roots are always darker. oh well I should save some money for a professional draping.

  • "; ?> cass

    Well I think I finally figured it out. I think I am a deep winter. Im cool,clear,and my skin doesn’t like light. Deep winters wear jewel tones to which was always something everyone noticed. When wearing muted,to warm,and light colors my eyes usually so vibrant eyes became somewhat hazed. Also if I lighten my hair lighter then medium brown it looks very off. My whole life people would say have you tried blonde hair because my skin is so pale,then id explain what happens when me and blonde meet.

  • "; ?> Jane

    I’m not on the warpath here. But I can’t see this woman as a true winter. She’s too light. Tell me why I’m wrong, anybody, totally open to it.

  • "; ?> JudiAnn

    she also seems quite bright; that is the first thing I notice about her. Bright in a very beautiful way.

  • "; ?> Mia

    It would be interesting to know if she indeed did darken her hair slightly or even corrected the tone. She is a lovely girl, no question of that. 🙂 I can definitely see the connection with the drapes and the skin, and even the eyes. But, the strange orange hue in the hair, throws me. Do you ever get the chance to follow up with people you’ve analyzed over the years? Would also be interesting to know if she has adjusted to her colors, still uses her palette, and is still wearing makeup. I can’t picture Winter being so “natural”, that feels foreign to me. I realize she is not the makeup wearing type and prefers sheer shades with light application. But, with makeup in mind, can less equal less even if the palette colors are correct?

    I consider myself a True Winter, and I ‘own’ and wear my colors like nobody else I know. I love wearing makeup, sheer or not. I love the drama and high contrast Winter brings, and I embrace it. Do you find many newly labeled Winters have trouble accepting their new palette? Do many have hang-ups or insecurities over appearing “Goth” (even though they are not and don’t look that way) or appear clownish in bright colors? How many of you have to push yourselves out of your “comfort zone”? Just genuinely curious to know what you think, and any others who’d like to reply. Thank you, Christine.

  • "; ?> Grace

    Hi Mia

    I was analysed as a Bright Winter about 6 months ago by Nikki Bogardus. I’d been dressing Soft Summer and wearing Soft Summer makeup for years beforehand, apart from a deep seated love of red lipstick.

    Bright Winter was a surprise, but one I’ve taken to. It can be uncomfortable at first to wear bright clothes after wearing black or soft grey. I did smallish steps – mostly navy or grey with a pop of colour. I look so much better though – I don’t catch myself in the mirror and think ‘Oh, I look tired.’ I literally grey out in softer clothes – saw that in my PCA. I live in reddish lips (I tend to prefer a sheer or slightly sheeny shade rather than matte). I do keep eyes quite simple, but in BW shades (MAC Yogurt all over as a wash, Phone number pencil to line, a little bit of Scene smudged on the top of that).

    Basically, I haven’t looked back 🙂

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman

      Mia – Emily has moved from this area so I no longer see her. Your Q of less equal less is, I think, a matter of taste. It’s a bit like the ‘does keeping hair coloured keep you looking younger?’ Q – I think for some women, the answer is yes, but the deeper Q is whether that should matter. For me, the important thing is to feel comfortable, secure, and grateful for the body we were put in.
      Her hair colour was her own in those photos and is not remotely orange IRL. She’d be the woman who could appear True Summer until she was draped. Just as Grace said, in Summer colour, Emily became weak and powdery looking.
      The less=less Q is interesting too because back before we really understood how analyzing human colouring is done, lots of women were told they were Winter who were not. The reverse happened also, all the Winters were told they were some other Season, because, unadorned, a Winter face can look very average on the Drama scale. Plain in the sense of not-extreme. Once you put their clothing and cosmetics on them, she looks like a different person. We can finally see her, but how would we know that we couldn’t before? Men are very much the same. I can’t tell you how often I have to say “I never really saw the man.”, and this is just by the drapes alone.
      Do many have insecurities? Oh, sure. They see the fuchsia blush come out and you can feel the tension. But Winters are smart, tough on themselves, and not overly sentimental, so they are very willing to try and quick to see the improvement. Many don’t look back, in fact I get many new clients from the friends and family who watch a Winter transform.
      Do I push people? If only you knew me 🙂 I push everybody, all the time, till they hit the brakes. I don’t mean to be rude or intrusive. The people who know me expect it. I hope I’ve learned something from all my Summers and softened a bit over the years. But I know full well that
      – they’ll get home and the family will react negatively to the changes, makeup for sure; everyone has to adapt, not just the client; the negative voices creep back in right away, from the most well-meaning sources who liked things as they were; is our family’s main interest really and truly to see us grow and capture our own power, or take it back after all these years?
      – in her real life, she’ll back off and wear half of what I put on, which is probably a good compromise
      – if we’re taking photos for online groups, she’ll look flat and wimpy without makeup to match the drapes; online impressions and feedback are a conversation all by themselves, and few of us have the personal insulation to not listen
      – I’m trying to change her relationship with colour in a short time so I have to overdo it a little to budge the old ideas out of the way
      – it’s a colour lesson, part of which is the concept that when a colour is right and fully at home on your face, you don’t have to be too careful with it
      – everyone is expected to adjust the experience; you may wear more, another woman would only wear dark colours, another would be so uncomfortable with cosmetics that she’d request that we apply no makeup of any sort, another might try a gloss or eyeliner but no way both at once,…

  • "; ?> Mandy

    I was recently analyzed by Cate Linden as a True Winter,after having lived as a soft summer for years. My coloring is medium contrast and my hair is mousy with about 25 percent gray. I’m 32 so I can’t stand the gray and want to cover it. I was thinking of just asking my stylist to low lent my hair over the grays with a color that’s as close as possible to my natural color which is very ashy but also has some copper in it. What would you suggest?

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman

      Mandy – I’m such a fan of looking real, believable, convincing, like you could have just happened that way. I’m also not a personal fan of spending time and $ in the stylist’s chair very often. You don’t have to agree with these, but I mention them to frame the sort of answer I’d give your Q. By all means, have them match your own hair if they can. What you describe is not rare for TW and it looks great. It’s very important to keep in mind how our clothing looks with our hair colour, a Q that colourists should ask a lot more than they do. Generally, W looks terrific in their silver, in fact it’s the one time in their lives they actually have the right colour highlights 🙂 Letting some of those be adds contrast, is the flattering way by which W lighten their hair as they mature, it adds drama, and keeps upkeep less intensive. The trick is to manage which silver strands are left out. Sometimes, there are a few areas of heavier silver that can be incorporated into a cool design or pattern that looks intentional.

  • "; ?> Mandy

    *lowlight not lent

  • "; ?> Valentina

    Hello Mrs Scaman,
    [just a bit of context] I’m a bit shy and worry to address you in public. First of all, because I’m not an English native speaker and I can’t express myself thouroughly. Secondly, because I wonder if the question I want to ask you wouldn’t be too personal (of none general interest). Nevertheless it wouldn’t be fair to ask for-me-only.
    I’ve never been colour analyzed in your system. I’m studying it while wondering about how could I possibly meet you in person (living abroad and speaking such a little English).
    I was struck by this face because it is exactly mine. Exactly. The only difference being that I’ve dark hair and eyes.
    Could we suppose a pattern of the season within the season? [I’m a Winter, just don’t know if a Dark or True one — and the reason I’m currently trying out and can’t dismiss the True is I can take my mind off this astounding similarity not a single moment.]
    Thank you

    • "; ?> Christine Scaman

      Hi, Valentina,

      You are most welcome email me privately to christine@12blueprints.com. I too am not certain of how to meet in person. If I understand your question of similar facial appearance within Season, the answer is somewhat vague. Yes, sometimes there are similarities that are seen often, but equally often, people in any Season have unique and individual facial features.

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